The homogeneity of the landscape is the result of massive territory transformation works, which have continued for centuries: irrigation works and water canalisation between the 1300s and the 1500s enabled the reclamation of the swampy areas, irrigating the dry lands and creating the new possibilities of cultivation and livestock farming.

In the 15th century rice cultivation was introduced, and it was given large impulse by the agrarian policy of the Sforza and particularly of Ludovico Il Moro, designer of the Sforzesca, an agricultural estate model which soon became the emblem of his power.

The colours of the landscape in the Lomellina vary according to the rice seasons: at first the sea of water mirrors the sky, then it becomes field green, then a blond sea. It goes without saying that the area's traditional dishes derive from the combination of rice as the main base with the most varied ingredients: from "rice and frogs", to Paniscia, a tasty country risotto.

It is not just rice that distinguishes gastronomic Lomellina, however. In Mortara, for example, they rear geese- a tradition dating back to medieval times - to produce that delicacy that is called "foie gras" in France - fattened liver - and to processes their meat and prepare hams and salamis of particular flavour. A famous vegetable is also the violet asparagus of Cilavegna, which grows in the sandy terrains with high acidic density, protected in special asparagus "cradles" created by men in order for the asparaguses to grow healthy and strong. Lombard tradition has them simply boiled, seasoned with melted butter and Grana cheese.

July.2002

In association with Ersal, Ente Regionale di Sviluppo Agricolo della Lombardia

A few appetizing local rice recipes